Stage 5- 2017 Llandudno to Doncaster via the Peak District

We arrived in Scotland to hot (80s) dry weather- something we have rarely experienced during our time there.  The "heatwave" only lasted a couple of days and then the normal cool, rainy weather returned.  As usual, we spent the first day by making sure our bikes were in working order. After brushing off the cobwebs, pumping up the tires, and lubing the chains, Laura and Adam joined us for a ride along the Strathblane cycle path to Clachan of Campsie for lunch at one of our old favorites, the Campsie Glen Tea Room. Fortunately, it is a flat ride because neither Dave nor Lori had functioning rear brakes. So the next day, it was off to Billy Bilsand Cycles in the Haymarket area of Glasgow for repairs. We had to leave the bikes overnight, but had fully functioning bikes in the car when we set off early Monday morning for Northern Wales; the starting point of our ride.  We arrived early enough to visit Bodnant Garden, a botanical garden that we had planned to visit last year, but ran out of time. 

Lori, under the Laburnum Ache

We were lucky enough to arrive when Bodnant's renowned Laburnum Arch was in full bloom. This 55-meter-long arch is composed of a metal frame with Laburnum trees (also called Golden Chain Tree) planted along both sides. Their branches have been trained and trimmed for the 100 plus years since they were planted in the late 1800s to form a magnificent arched walkway. The blossoms droop down earning them the nickname “golden rain” (not to be confused with golden shower). After walking through the arch we joined a tour to help us better experience the remaining 80 acres of gardens, containing plants collected more than a century ago on global expeditions.

A view of some of the trees from around the world that now grow in the gardens.

Brilliant blue flowers at Bodnant Garden

This year's route began in Llandudno, Wales and took us into England, through the Peak District, and across the Pennines to the city of Doncaster.

Bryn Woodlands House in Colwyn Bay

Bike Ride Day 1: Tuesday May 30th: Llandudno to Chester 

(54 miles, about 3000 feet of climbing)

Our accommodation for the night was Bryn Woodlands House in Colwyn Bay, Wales. On Tuesday morning we had an early breakfast and drove to Llandudno to return our rental car. We began our cycling journey on the National Cycle Network (NCN) Route #5, which took us along a coastal path that we followed for 25 miles. The sky was overcast and gray and the forecast was for a 15% chance of rain. We thought that meant it was unlikely to rain, but apparently it means it will rain 15% of the day because that is what happened – misty rain with a few soaking downpours. 

Strange concrete shapes along sections of the coast help to prevent erosion.

Low tide along the Welsh coast

Fences along the beach

We stopped for lunch at the Crofters Pantry Café in Gronant, before starting up a long climb. There were some steep slopes, but riding surfaces were good. After descending back to the coast we were rewarded with sunshine, which allowed a brief exploration of the ruins of Flint Castle. 

Dave at the entry to Flint Castle ruins.

Somewhere between Flint and Chester we crossed from Wales into England. The greatest navigational challenge of the day was finding the Saddle Inn once we reached Chester. Chester is a beautiful town noted for its black-and-white revival architecture, in which the timber frame is painted back and the panels between are painted white. It is also home to the second most photographed clock in England (after Big Ben): The Eastgate Clock. It stands at the site of the original Roman fortress. After showering, we explored the area on foot for about 45 minutes, checking out every eating establishment in the downtown area before deciding on a Thai restaurant only a block from the Saddle Inn. It was excellent.

The Saddle Inn, our accommodation in Chester

Black-and-white architecture

A view of the Eastgate Clock

Bike Ride Day 2: Wednesday May 31st: Chester to Crew 

(37 miles and 1,322 ft climbing)

This canal path led us safely out of Chester

We got a late start because we had to stop at a bike shop to get a replacement screw to hold Dave’s bike rack and fender on. The screw had managed to work itself lose and disappear. From there we picked up the Shrapshire Union Canal Path. The scenery was beautiful, but the going slow. The path began as a roughly paved path with stones or bricks imbedded in the pavement for traction at the locks. As we progressed, the path began to narrow and the surface turned to gravel, then to single track, then to dirt, then to a ½ track lane of dirt, and finally to tall grass with a hint of a matted line down the middle. Just as it became completely unrideable we turned onto a paved road next to the canal and our speed increased significantly. It had taken us 3 hours to ride just 8 miles along the canal path – that includes stopping for photos and to figure out if we were really supposed to be on a grassy path. 

At this point along the canal there was almost no path, just a grassy verge.

We never got into the Cholmondeley Castle gardens,
but there was a very cute gatehouse.

Around lunchtime we diverted off our route to go to the Cholmondeley Castle Gardens. Castle gardens always have good teashops, but this time we didn’t get to find out; you had to pay a steep admission just to get to the tearoom. We did not have time for a castle tour and lunch so we returned to our route and eventually stopped at the Dusty Miller Pub in Wrenbury for lunch. 

Stopping for a break outside this cooking school near Chester.

After lunch we stayed on paved roads and then some nice bike paths through a number of parks that eventually led into the city center of Crew. The riding was a bit dodgy here so we chose to ride on the sidewalks to avoid busy, narrow roads. Our accommodation was the Hunter’s Lodge Hotel, located outside of town. It was a strange place that was akin to an American motel, with a similarly disinterested staff. We had no options for dinner, other than eating at the Hunter’s Lodge.

Hunter's Lodge

Bike Ride Day 3: Thursday June 1st: Crew to Winkhill 

(36.4 miles with 3,205 feet climbing)

In the morning we rode along the Wheelock Rail Trail and some low traffic roads. One stretch was so low traffic that it was actually closed due to an unsafe bridge. Fortunately we were able to get our bikes around the hay bales and concrete barricades and trust that the bridge would hold our weight as we crossed over the M6. 

Lori riding by one of the locks along the Trent and Mersey Canal. 

Then we joined the Trent and Mersey Canal path. The path was narrow and the surface was gravel so the going was slow, but it was beautiful and the canal was filled with longboats. We stopped to chat with the boaters as they made their way up what is referred to as ‘Heartbreak Hill’, a seven-mile stretch with 26 locks, ascending 250ft. We left the canal at Kidsgrove, and from there we were on some fairly busy roads as we skirted Stoke-on Trent. A little before noon we needed a break so we had tea and scones at a relatively upscale cafe which, strangely enough, was part of a retirement center. 

A view of one of the many locks along Heartbreak hill.

Dave, chatting with a boater making his way through one of the locks.

Energized by our snack, we rejoined the route only to run out of road in a residential neighborhood. After consultation with the paper map, the Garmin, and the iPhone failed, Dave went old school and used eyes to discover a footpath nearby, heading in the right direction. Our mapping program had actually routed us down this narrow, overgrown walking path! So we plowed ahead, walking our bikes through the tall grass down the steep hill. The up-side was that the field was full of wild flowers. We eventually rejoined our route, which followed the canal path and then some beautiful but hilly farm roads. 

Dave, walking his bike along the overgrown footpath. We were picking flowers out of our chain rings for days.

We stopped for lunch at the Old School Craft Center and Tea Rooms (yes it was an old schoolhouse and art gallery) in Cheddleton. We explored the art on display inside and sat outside in the sun to eat our lunch. 

Lori, arriving at the Old School Craft Center and Tea Rooms

We cycled on hilly paved roads all afternoon. Our accommodation for the night was Moorland View Farm B&B near the town of Winkhill. The only option for dinner was the Red Lion pub in Waterhouses, about a 1.25-mile walk. Fortunately it was a beautiful evening.

Dave, inspecting his bike in front of Moorland View Farm B&B.

Bucolic view on our evening walk to the Red Lion Pub for dinner.

Bike Ride Day 4: Friday June 2nd: Winkhill to Arbor Low 

(28 miles and 1600 ft of climbing)

Today we entered the Peak District. One of the reasons for riding here was to enjoy the scenic rail trails that crisscross the region. The Peak District is at the southern end of the Pennines, a mountain range running north and south through the middle of England. It was the first National Park in the UK, established in 1951. We were apprehensive about riding in what we thought from the name would be very hilly terrain, but it turns out the Peak District is not named for its peaks. In fact, it is mostly rounded hills and plateaus. One theory as to the derivation of the name is that it is named after an Anglo-Saxon tribe know as the Pecsaetan, or Peaklanders, who inhabited the area from the 6th century AD. 

Morning cycle along the Manifold Track.

We rode from our B&B to the town of Waterfall (which doesn’t have a waterfall) and then to Waterhouses (not even sure what a waterhouse is?). Soon after, we found the start of the Manifold Track, an 8-mile traffic-free path through the Manifold Valley. It is very sheltered and our senses were overwhelmed by the sight of wildflowers, the sound of bird song, and the scent of wild onions. The track followed a river, but most of the riverbed was dry, unusual for the rainy UK. It turns out that the Manifold River disappears down a sinkhole near the town of Wetton Mill and reappears near Ilam. This beautiful track ended poorly with a long, very steep, rocky, hike-a-bike. 

Beautiful scenery along the Manifold Track

At the end of the Manifold Track we had to push our bikes up this rocky path to reach a farm road. You can just make out Dave's yellow jacket further up the path.

After our hike-a-bike we joined a farm road and after making some route corrections to avoid unpaved roads we ended up in the town of Hartington where we had lunch at the Beresford Tea Rooms.

Lunch!

The old Hartington Railway Station near where we joined
the Tissington Trail

After lunch we had to ride up a very steep hill to connect with the Tissington Trail. Unlike the Manifold Track, which followed a valley, the Tissington Trail is elevated and relatively flat (former railway), with panoramic views of the countryside. 

View of the countryside from the Tissington Trail

Lori riding along the Tissington Trail

Our B&B, Arbor Low, was only a few miles off the trail. We had spent a night at Arbor Low in the winter of 2011 on a drive back from Bristol when we were living in Scotland. We enjoyed our stay so much that we made sure to plan this return visit. During our previous stay, the 6000-year old Arbor Low Stone Circle next to the farmhouse was covered in snow. This time it was a playground for lambs. The B&B owner, Nicola, cooked a delicious meal for us and we had an interesting conversation about the era of Brexit and Trump.

Looking down at the Arbor Low farmhouse (where we stayed) from the stone circle.

Lambs jumping and chasing on the fallen stones of the Arbor Low Stone Circle.

Bike Ride Day 5: Saturday June 3rd: Arbor Low to New Mills 

(35 miles and 3100 ft of climbing)

We started our day with an early morning walk to the stone circle in brilliant sunshine and clear skies. 

In the early morning light we caught our shadows as we looked across at the fallen stones of the stone circle and the raised mound that surrounds them.

After breakfast we rode to the town of Monyash and then on to Bakewell. Bakewell was a beautiful town, but on a sunny Saturday it was overcrowded with tourists. We spent almost an hour trying to find a drug store to buy sunscreen. After that we were very ready to get out of town and find the start of the Monsal Trail, which follows the valley of the River Wye. 

A view of Bakewell from the Monsal Trail

While riding the Monsal Trail you pass through 7 tunnels (most of which are long enough to require lighting) and cross over several viaducts. It was a sunny Saturday so the trail was crowded with families biking and walking. The Monsal Trail literally ended, with no obvious connection to other routes.  We tried to follow our route mapping but it dumped us onto the busy A6 and then directed us to turn off onto what turned out to be a walking path into a grassy (unridable) field. After stopping to study our various mapping devices we continued along the A6 as trucks and cars roared by us until we found a side road that climbed steeply to the town of Cowdale. From there we joined up with a narrow paved road that eventually took us into Buxton where we could rejoin our planned route.

Dave emerging from one of the many tunnels along the Monsal Trail

A view down at a walking path from one of the viaducts along the Monsal Trail.

Buildings in downtown Buxton.

Buxton was awash with weekend activities. We found a café to relax and eat a late lunch. The riding after Buxton was very hilly. 

Heading into the hills.

We were following NCN#68 bike path, but it had some disappointing sections, such as an unpaved, rutted, stony road that was impossible to ride. We were also delayed on a steep descent when we had to wait for a herd of cows to stream from a field, down the road, and into the barn. Of course, our accommodation for the night – the Pack Horse Inn was most of the way up a long steep climb. We arrived totally exhausted. There were no other pubs for miles, and the Pack Horse Inn restaurant was all pre-booked, but the staff was kind enough to squeeze us into the pub for dinner. 

Changing from bike shoes into trainers
 to make it easier to walk the bike
 along the rocky track.

Waiting for cows to cross the road
 to the barn.

The Pack Horse Inn

It was a long climb up to the Pack Horse Inn, but it was worth it to get this view from our window.

Bike Ride Day 6: Sunday June 4th: New Mills to Tankersley 

(33 miles and 2400 ft of climbing)

Since the Pack Horse Inn was not quite at the top of the hill, our day started by continuing the previous day's climb. We rejoined the NCN#68, which lead us to the Trans Pennine Trail (TPT), which runs from coast to coast. In most places it is a gravel-style rail trail, which follows canal paths and old railway lines. The section we rode along took us by a series of reservoirs to the mouths of the Woodhead Tunnels. These three parallel 3-mile-long railway tunnels are closed now except for one which carries power cables, rather than passengers, under the hill. 

A view from the TPT across one of the reservoirs we rode along. The weather was threatening but it only let loose once during the day.

A view of the 3 Woodhead Tunnel entrances. Two are closed over, and the third is open to carry power lines.

To bypass the Woodhead tunnels, the TPT path climbs steeply up rocky steps with switchbacks to reach the moor above the tunnel. The track at the top was rocky and the slow going, but we were able to ride most of it. We were delayed several times by sheep or cows grazing in the path. After crossing the moor, the rocky path became a beautiful paved road that took us down off the moor and joined a traffic-free paved path along the River Don (Don Valley Trail). 

Lori, dragging her bike up above the Woodhead Tunnels to cross the moor.

Riding across the moor among the sheep.

Dave passing through a gate along our route over the moor.

The cafe where we had lunch was among these shops.
One sign is for cycle repairs.
Fortunately we did not need any.

We eventually left the path and climbed on roads into the town of Wortley where we stopped at a café for lunch. We timed our lunch poorly because it was pouring rain when it was time to leave. We had a stretch on rough uphill roads before arriving at Tankersley Manor. Again, we had no options for dinner other than to stay where we were.

Tankersley Manor

Bike Ride Day 7: Monday June 5th: Tankersley to Doncaster 

(21 miles and 750 feet of climbing)

This was a short, mostly downhill day, planned that way because we had to get to the car rental location and then drive back to Strathblane. After a short distance on paved roads we picked up a lovely canal path along the Elsecar Branch Canal, which then joined a path along the River Dearne. 

Serene canal path.

We had a bit of navigational confusion when we rode along the top of a spectacular viaduct only to discover that the path we were supposed to be on was hundreds of feet below us. Some minor backtracking and a descent solved the problem and we followed a beautiful shaded path along the River Don. We stayed on this path until we were only a mile or so from the car rental place in Doncaster. 

Looking up at the viaduct once we got on the right path.

Our drive back to Scotland was slow because the highway periodically became a single lane road with the slow lane taken up with horse-drawn carriages. The pouring rain didn’t help. Still, better to be in the car in the rain than on our bikes in the rain. We were back to Strathblaine in time for dinner.

On our drive back we came across a tank crossing. Go figure!

June 7th-June 10th A Visit to Mull, Staffa, and Lunga

On Wednesday June 7th, we drove to Oban to catch a ferry to the Isle of Mull. From Craignure, where the ferry docked, we drove north along the coast and stopped at a teashop in Salen for lunch. We had stayed in Salen on a trip to Mull in 2011, but on that trip we did not explore the northern part of the island. The road north (as well as most of the roads on the island) is single track, with passing places so cars coming in opposite directions can pass. Our destination was Tobermory, a coastal town noted for its brightly colored shop fronts. 

The roads on Mull were predominantly single track with passing places.

We walked around Tobermory (no bikes on this trip!) and visited the Mull historical museum and the Mull aquarium. The aquarium was the first catch-and-release aquarium in Europe. It houses only local marine life and creatures are only kept for 2 weeks before being released back into the sea. The tanks are continuously restocked by local fishermen who bring in buckets of interesting things they drag up in their nets. A new octopus was brought in while we were there so we got to watch them catch the one in the tank (no easy task) and replace it with the new one. 

We had dinner at an interesting restaurant called the Hebridean Lodge. It is in the upstairs of a gallery and you look down on the art as you eat. We sat next to a woman who writes for a food magazine and she was photographing all the food, but not eating much, so offered us whatever we wanted of hers.

Tobermory

Our boat tour to Staffa and Lunga left from Ulva Ferry. We could not find a town named Ulva Ferry on the map and finally realized that they meant literally the site of the ferry that goes from Mull to the isle of Ulva. The actual Ulva ferry was little more than a skiff with an outboard motor driven by a local guy in rain gear. To signal the ferry you simply slide a wooden panel from right to left to uncover a red square. The ferry operator on Ulva sees red and comes to get you.

Ulva ferry coming to pick up passengers

Instructions on how to call the ferry

While waiting for our tour we chatted with some sailors overnighting on chartered sailboats at the dock. It was June and they were all wearing thermal-lined, one-piece, waterproof suits with head coverings and gloves. Not a good advertisement for summer cruising in Scotland. Dave enjoyed discussing their boats and experiences and then lent a hand to get them safely off the dock. 

Our cruise to Staffa took us past some spectacular views of Mull and Ulva. Staffa is an island made up of hexagonal basalt columns formed from cooling lava. The boat was able to nose into Fingle’s cave, a sea cave, and then dock to allow us an hour to explore the island on foot. We walked into Fingal’s cave and then climbed to the top of the island to enjoy the views. The light winds made the sea calm but allowed the midges to attack us on Staffa.

Our boat, the Hoy Lass, docked at Staffa

Basalt columns that form Staffa

More pentagonal basalt columns with colorful lichens

Dave and Lori walking out to Fingal's Cave on a "warm" summer day

Looking into Fingal's Cave

From Staffa we sailed to Lunga, the largest of the Treshnish Islands (part of the Inner Hebrides). There was no dock on the island so the boat picked up a floating dock at a mooring and attached it to the side of the boat. By nosing the dock up to the shore with the dock protruding in front, we were all able to get onto the rocky shore of the island. We climbed a steep staircase that led up to a grassy cliff area swarming with cute, curious, extremely photogenic puffins. We enjoyed more puffins and other birds and flora on a walk out to Harp Rock, a sea stack at the tip of the island that is home to a large and very noisy colony of Gillemots. The sound was deafening and was accompanied by the swishing of hundreds of pairs of wings zooming overhead. 

A view of part of Lunga's puffin colony with our tour boat in the background.  The puffins nest in tunnels along the cliff edge.

A trio of puffins.

Curious puffin

Puffins on lichen covered rock with Gillemots in the background

Gillemot colony at Harp Rock

Had to put in one more puffin photo

After the cruise we drove back to our B&B by taking the long route around the western part of Mull. It was a very slow, high-stress drive on hilly, twisting, single-track roads, but the scenery was spectacular. We ended up having dinner at the Bellachory Hotel in Deraig.







The next morning we stopped to see to the Baliscate standing stones before driving back to Craignure. There we caught the Ferry back to mainland Scotland and then drove back to Strathblane to start our return trip.

Lori standing by the Baliscate standing stones.